Photos

Photos linked to previous post.

Departure.

Eurotunnel

Ancona

Blasting through Europe... At 55mph!

Tuesday 22d April - 274 miles

So we packed up and got ready to go, justas  the rain started. Typical! I could have bet weeks ago it would rain on on departure day!
We got to the eurotunnel in good time, it was fairly quite.
On the other side we started having problems with the automated road tolls.... The sensors don't always detect a bike, or the second one!

At 7 pm we finally arrived, under more rain, to our destination for the day: the beautiful house of my school friend Christine, in Normandy. We had a quiet evening.

Weds. 23rd April - 147 miles
We got up early to say goodbye to Christine who was leaving early and left soon after her. Our second planned stop in France was in Angers, at my brother house. Once again the weather was wet and cold.
We arrived early afternoon and went shopping at the local outdoor shop, for some additional thermal layers with Mimi, my sister in law.
After an evening of too much food an drinks we went to bed late a a bit tipsy!

Thurs 24th April - 361 miles
So far our little bikes have been going incredibly well. The only issue we had was the slow speed,e specially of Alistair's bike. He could barely push up beyond 55 mph, until we devised a new plan!
Tagging behind a lorry would protect us from the wind and keep up at 55 to 60 mph, sometime even peeking at 65 or 70! Result. So we kept picking trucks to follow!
Despite this game we had a long tiring day, punctuated by fuel stops and rest stops every 60 to 70 miles.

It is also becoming urgent to buy some sheepskins as we end up with very sore bottoms!

We kept having problems with the automated tolls.
By 7 pm we  got off the motorway and found a   nice and cheap hotel. We got the bikes locked in the patio restaurant,and after a quick meal went straight to sleep, exhausted.

Friday 25th april - 300 miles

After a massive breakfast we left alter than planned.
We set off to go round Lyon, but with bad signals and stupid Gps,we  ended up going straight across the town centre, losing over an hour!

After unwillingly visiting Lyon, we got back on the motorway and climbed into the Alps. Beautiful views but very low clouds! We went through the tunnel du Frejus, at 28€ per bike for the pleasure!

We were then in Italy! We passed turin and by end of the day, despite wasting lots of time in Lyon we got near piacenza where we got off the motorway to find a hotel. We found a hotel by a petrol station but the place look deserted. Alistair went to  investigate but it was locked. As we started putting back our helmets an old lady came out. We parked the bikes in an enclosed yard, guarded by 2 very savage looking dogs!

After a quick shower we went to investigate the area and found a pizzeria! Dinner!

Saturday 26th April - 292 miles

We got up early, packed and left.we  rode about a mile before we saw a bakery / coffeeshop and   we stopped for breakfast.

We continued then on the motorway, with the same annoying tolls problems! We saw some other local bikers having the same problems...

As it was saturday, and for once the weather was actually rather sunny, there were lots of stylish italian bikers out for a ride. A big gang of Harley riders passed us. The last one had an open face helmet  and was smoking a huge cigar! Italians!

During one of our stops we discussed wether to get a ferry from Ancona to Patras, or ride further south and   catch a ferry from brindisi. That would mean a further 600 km to do... The choice was simple and we got to Ancona.

We arrived mid afternoon and went straight to the ferry terminal to buy our tickets for the next day.
After that we decided to find a nice little hotel in village by the coast. Without a map that did not go down well and ended up lost in various shopping or industrial zones! After an hour we gave up,cam e back to the town centre and just picked a hotel with garage!

To be continued.....

New Map!

Roughly our itinerary this time, via Italy, Greece and Turkey.
Weather permitting we will come back across Scandinavia, although not sure yet which way.
The alternative would be to ride back via Latvia and the Baltic states, Poland, Germany etc... but we have done this route before and going round Scandinavia could be very interesting (but cold!).

We are all packed, although we did not do a test ride with the luggage on. Tomorrow.
As expected, and according to Murphy Law, after days of sunshine and warmth, it is now starting to rain and be cold again. I fully expect several days of heavy rain as soon as we get off! :(

We are ready!

Well that's it! The dog has been dropped in Wales with his foster family and we have only 2 days left before departure. 

We spend 3 nights renting a big caravan, in a farm, with the dog. We had fantastic sunshine during the day but it was so cold at night we used the quilts from the spare bedroom to keep warm. With 2 layers it was bearable.... 

Now back at home. We still have to double check the luggage and packing, do a final test ride with the bikes fully loaded, and few bits and pieces... But are pretty much ready to go! 

Mongolia, here we come! 

Starting count down....

Only 20 days to go before departure!

 After a quick weekend in Wales, to visit our dog prospective foster family, we are finally relieved.

We found very good people to look after the dog, family members of one of my friends. They live in a village, by the sea, in a farmer community…. It is paradise for a dog. Sorting out the foster care for the dog was our main concern and we are really glad we found the perfect arrangement.
The dog felt immediately at home there and quite incredibly jumped straight into their knees, which he never does usually with strangers! So the dog will be dropped there before we leave.

 Our second concern was our house. But there again we found an ideal arrangement, as the daughter of one of our neighbours has come back from University. She will stay in the house for few months, keeping an eye on things.

So now, we just need to finalise things. We are almost there after securing all other visas. We only need the Mongol visas. One last injection (vaccination), some packing … and then a test ride this weekend to see how our panniers affect the handling of the bikes and how to fine tune that…

 I am feeling a bit worried about some details, but also very excited. I think I am ready to go!

And here few photos of previous trips... can you guess the country????? Big clue with the last photo.

New plan!

Things have changed quite a bit since last post.

 

First the good news, we have our Uzbek and Tajik visas (including the GBAO permit that allows us to ride the famous Pamir Highway and Wakhan corridor, in Tajikistan).

 

We are now waiting for the Kazakh visas, for the second time. First time round, the agency turned down our application, as, for overland travellers, Kazakhstan demands visas for countries we will be in and out, and we did not have the Uzbek one!

 

With the situation in Ukraine deteriorating, we have decided to change our plans and avoid it, as we cannot be sure the borders will be open, even if the situation is calm. Normally, change of itinerary does not happen until we start our trips! It can happen due to weather or road conditions (snow for example), timing, protests/ politics…. I feel very sorry for what is happening in Ukraine and hope for a peaceful resolution.

For our trip, it means we have the option to either go north via Latvia, or South via Turkey.

 

The Latvia option is not great as we will come back that way, and it will be cold late April. So we have decided to ride south to Italy, pick up a ferry to Greece, then a ferry to Turkey. From there, we will ride toward the Black sea and follow the coast into Georgia. No visa required there!

 

Then cross Georgia and into Russia, making our way to Astrakhan. Then back to our initial route into Kazakhstan. Of course we hope the border will still be open between Georgia and Russia, by then.... Things are a bit tense....

It is a bit of a detour, and I am very aware that the timing will be tight. Remember, we are travelling on a couple of 125cc bikes, we will struggle to keep an average of 250km daily. We will need to stop for repairs, source parts, weather & road conditions etc… Mongolia is a long way, and we have to come back too.

 

We have not changed our fixed entry dates for the Stans:

 

Visa start for Kazakh: 12^th of May (60 day double entry)

Visa Start for Uzbek: 14^th of May  (30 day single entry)

Visa start for Tajik: 19^th of May (30 days single entry)

 

We will apply for the Mongol visa week of the 15^th April. So we have until the 14^th of July to make it to the border.

 

We need now to pack everything and see how we are going to fit everything is our saddles bags…. That will be interesting! 

 

That’s all for now. Starting to feel a bit apprehensive. It is going to be a big adventure! The Stans and Mongolia will not be a walk in the park!  I hope I am not biting more than I can chew! Time will tell!

4 weeks to go! 

Already starting to change our plans!

After getting the Russian multi entry visa we applied to the Kazakh visa last week, but the agency turned our application down as, apparently, Kazakh requires Uzbek visa as we are touring by road. So we applied directly to the Uzbek embassy on Monday. Still Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Mongolian visas to sort out. We will get there eventually but it takes time. The Uzbek embassy, for example, is going to keep our passports for 10 days! 10 days!? What the hell?! Regarding the itinerary, my plan is starting to look shaky, and we may not be able to go via Ukraine. Plan B would be to go via Latvia, but it is quite a detour North and it will be a long ride from the border crossing with Russia to the Kazakh border! I still keep hope that we may be able to cross Ukraine, although I do not want to come face to face with Russian tanks! The bikes are now ready, after extensive work (they are 8 and 9 year old). They had never been maintained so it is a testament to how solid and tough they are. We tested them on very muddy green lanes few days ago and they seem to behave. But it is going to take time to get used to the lack of power. However they are so light it will be a massive advantage once we leave Europe and especially Mongolia.

So what next? We want to do a “dry run” with the bikes fully loaded. We are trying to go “minimalist” in term of luggage which is leading me to do some research and experiments on myself! I want to avoid taking liquid shampoo and conditioner. They can leak, are heavy and bulky. I bought Pine Tar Soap which, allegedly, can be used for body and hair, and even for shaving! Well, after washing my hair with it last night I can confirm this is… utter b*llsh*t! My hair was left very tangled and unmanageable, and feeling sticky and matted. Horrible. I applied shampoo and rinsed 4 times, at lunch time at the gym, and it still feels a bit sticky! So, not one of my best ideas. However, I decided to try 2 different specific “shampoo solid bars” see if they are any better. We could do with one soap for body and one for hair! Easier to carry than bottles and would last longer….. worth a try anyway. At least I found a moisturiser that is multipurpose and fairly pleasant: Steamcream. It can be used as day/night/hand and body cream and is not too heavy like nivea for example. I like things that are multipurpose! It fits the spirit of “minimalism”.